Anti-aging skin care polyphenols

Polyphenols are active ingredients that have been verified by many parties in academia and industry to have both low irritation and broad-spectrum anti-aging effects. However, the efficacy of polyphenol products from different sources and formulas varies greatly. They are neither IQ tax nor a panacea. Only products that match your skin type and pass the craftsmanship can be effective.

Two years ago, I helped my best friend with dry and sensitive skin to clean up her dressing table. She was shocked: from toners to essences to sleeping masks, all she bought were models with high concentrations of tea polyphenols added. She even plausibly said, "You can't use A alcohol, so it's better to rely on polyphenols to fight aging." Her face turned red at every turn, and she always felt dry. After searching for a long time, she found out that it was due to too many layers of tea polyphenols - catechin polyphenols themselves have astringent properties, and also have a slight effect on promoting keratin metabolism. Dry and sensitive skin has a thin barrier, so applying three layers would not cause irritation.

At this point, I have to mention the current controversy about polyphenols. One side says that "polyphenols are all IQ taxes. They oxidize and turn yellow even before they are applied to the skin." The other side boasts that "polyphenols beat A-alcohol, and sensitive skin relies on it to resist aging." In fact, what both sides say is reasonable, but they are not entirely correct.

A few years ago, I got an unembedded high-purity anthocyanin stock solution from a raw material supplier. I put it in a transparent bottle and left it by the window for a long time. The original dark purple liquid turned brown directly, and it turned a little yellow before it was evenly applied on the back of my hands. This kind of polyphenols that have not been processed by technology is not to mention anti-aging, and it does not dye the face yellow. It is no wonder that some people are upset. But the current formulation technology has long since caught up. Last time I went to Guangzhou to visit a supply chain exhibition, I also saw the manufacturer’s microencapsulation of EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate, the most active ingredient in tea polyphenols). After 4 hours of simulated ultraviolet irradiation, the activity can be retained at 87%. This way, there will be no problem of yellowing after application. If you buy the kind of non-embedded polyphenol essence in a transparent bottle, don’t blame the ingredients for the ineffectiveness.

As for polyphenols being able to replace alcohol A, there is really no need to do so. I have been using polyphenol products for almost 5 years. To put it bluntly, it is a "defensive anti-aging player". Its core function is to scavenge free radicals, inhibit the activity of matrix metalloproteinases that decompose collagen, and also resist carbonylation of the skin (which is often referred to as anti-sugar and anti-yellowing). It is equivalent to adding a layer of anti-aging filter to the skin, but if you already have it For obvious fine lines and collagen loss problems, polyphenols alone are definitely not enough. It is still necessary to use a combination of collagen-promoting ingredients such as alcohol A and Bose. I now add a layer of resveratrol essence to my morning C routine, which is equivalent to supplementing VC. The brightening effect is much more stable than using VC alone, and it is not easy to cause darkening.

When choosing polyphenols for different skin types, you really have to choose the source. Sisters with oily skin, listen to me. If you want to fight aging but are afraid of acne, you should give priority to tea polyphenols or EGCG. When I have oily and acne-prone T-zone in the summer, I switch anti-aging essences to ones containing EGCG. It can not only remove excess free radicals produced by oil, but also suppress the redness of acne marks. It also prevents and eliminates the pigmentation after acne. It is much more cost-effective than using anti-acne essence alone. If you have dry skin, don’t join in the fun and choose high-concentration tea polyphenols. Pomegranate polyphenols and grape seed polyphenols are more suitable for you. These polyphenols themselves have a certain degree of emollient and will not dry out the skin. My mother has dry skin and is intolerant to nicotinamide. I bought her a bottle of red wine polyphenol essence before. After using it for half a year, she said that her face does not become dull and dull as quickly as before in winter, and it is very gentle. If you have sensitive skin, you should first choose low-concentration resveratrol that has been encapsulated in a sustained release. Don’t touch the original solution that claims to be “99% high-purity and without additives.” A fan sent me a private message before saying that my face burned after using a certain high-concentration resveratrol essence. When I took a look at the ingredient list, I saw that there was no sustained-release process. The high-concentration polyphenols directly contact the skin with a thin barrier, so it’s strange that it doesn’t irritate.

Oh, by the way, don’t do DIY blindly. I used to read Xiaohongshu and saw that some people put the herbal green tea directly on their faces, and some people ground grape seeds into powder and mixed it into facial cream. It’s really not necessary. The polyphenols in food have not been extracted, and the molecules are so large that they cannot penetrate the stratum corneum of the skin. If you apply them, they will be white, and they may clog your pores and cause acne. There is really no need to save this money.

In fact, there is no magical ingredient that can be used once and for all in the matter of anti-aging. Polyphenols are a player that I have used for so many years and have a high error tolerance rate. As long as you don’t mix them randomly and choose the right one that suits you, you will basically not fall into trouble. Anyway, skin care, try and adjust, and the one that suits you is the best~